Cross Canada Road-Trip:
The Charm of Elliston, Newfoundland

Elliston Newfoundland - A Picturesque Setting

There’s wash hanging out on the line and yards and ditches filled with wildflowers—lupines and daisies, flag irises and buttercups, purple clover, and a spectacular orange flower I’ve never seen before and don’t know the name of. Businesses, BnBs, and restaurants are small family-run affairs with all generations pitching in. The briny fresh smell of the ocean wafts through the window, and the sound of seagulls competes with the sea shanty playing on the radio—The Maiden and the Selkie by The Green Knight—one I hadn’t heard before.

The Root Cellar Capital and Puffins

Elliston is the Root Cellar Capital of the World—such a funny title to wear for the best place in the world to see puffins. Puffins are every bit as cool as their southern counterparts, the penguin. They sat on the rocky ledge, seemingly as curious about us as we were about them. Unlike penguins, they can still fly, but they sure don’t make it look easy. Lol. We drove to Newfoundland, though it took a ride on a ferry to get here. We stopped in Elliston for a week, enjoyed oceanside walks, and watched the sunset from our Airbnb patio overlooking the ocean. But our favorite thing to do was make the 5-minute trek to the viewing area for Bird Island, where the puffins nest. Binoculars are handy but not necessary—there were always a few puffins on our side of the thin strip of ocean that separated us from the nests.

Fascinating Puffins

Puffins are fascinating creatures. They dig burrows into the soil to create their nests, often on grassy clifftops. These burrows can be up to three feet long, and at the end, they make a cozy little nest. Puffins are very particular about their homes, ensuring the nest is lined with feathers and grass. Inside these burrows, they lay their single egg, which hatches into an adorable puffling. Pufflings stay hidden away in the burrows for several weeks, being fed by their parents until they're ready to venture out into the world.

Puffin Life

Watching these determined little birds waddle and then take off into flight is a sight to behold. The pufflings are fluffy and curious, making their first awkward steps and flights. Their parents are incredibly attentive, ensuring their young are well-fed and protected from the elements. Seeing these family interactions up close really gives you a sense of the strong bonds and survival instincts puffins have. Puffins have an interesting feeding strategy, too. They dive deep into the ocean, using their wings to swim and catch small fish like herring and capelin. Their beaks are specially adapted to hold several fish at once, allowing them to bring back plenty of food to their burrow. It’s incredible to watch them emerge from the water, their beaks filled with a line of glistening fish, ready to feed their hungry pufflings.

A Magical Visit

Our visit to Elliston was nothing short of magical. We loved soaking in the local accents, which added to the town's charm. Long, lazy days spent exploring scenic coastal paths and enjoying fresh seafood made our trip unforgettable. Watching the lobster boats checking their traps at the crack of dawn and later enjoying a fresh lobster feast was a real treat. The simplicity and beauty of Elliston captured our hearts. It feels like a tiny, remote treasure on the edge of the world—one of those places most of us are lucky to visit once in our lifetimes. My eyes are a little teary as I write this, driving out of town, waving goodbye one last time while listening to Northwest Passage by Stan Rogers. I’ll miss Elliston’s peculiar charm, taking home nothing but memories and my sea shanty playlist!

Until the next song,
Leanne